Build or Remodel Your Own House

House Plan Of The Week With Cost To Build

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Sun, 11 May 2008 14:01:00 +0000

From: Associated Designs, Inc.

The Markham - Plan #30-575

Stone veneer bases support the tapered columns fronting this Craftsman-style bungalow home plan. Inside, the living room links to the dining room, which is open to a sunny nook and kitchen. A cozy window seat nestles into an alcove in the nook. Owners’ suite amenities include a walk-in closet and spa tub.

From the street, the Markham has the appearance of a totally symmetrical Craftsman-style bungalow with an attached porte cochere. Telling details are the stone veneer bases supporting tapered columns, exposed rafter tails where the roof joins the wall, a gabled dormer, and windows with smaller panes in their upper halves.

Inside, a conveniently placed half-bath is tucked behind the foyer’s coat closet. Double doors on the right open into a den, ideally placed for use as a home office. The foyer’s open left side leads directly into the living room.

On the living room’s left wall, a mess-free gas fireplace serves as a focal point, next to cabinetry for a home entertainment center.

The living room links to the dining room which in turn is open to the nook and kitchen. The kitchen has cupboards and counters on three sides, including a set that extends into the nook, and a roomy walk-in pantry. The nook’s wide sliding glass doors offer direct access to a covered patio, which could be screened, if desired.

Laundry appliances are right off the kitchen. The utility room has built-in cabinets and a spacious folding counter. A door there connects the room to a large storage area, tucked under the stairs.

A cozy, semi-private window seat is nestled into an alcove on the far side of the nook, across from the entry to the owners’ suite. This makes a great place to read a book, or simply daydream.

The owners’ suite is at the rear of the Markham. Amenities here include: a walk-in closet, spa tub, dual vanity, and a separately enclosed toilet and shower. Two more bedrooms and a bathroom are upstairs.

Total Living Area: 2222 square feet. 1st Floor: 1700 square feet. 2nd Floor: 522 square feet. Garage: 480 square feet. Plan Width: 50' 0". Plan Depth: 67' 0". Floors: 2. Garage: 2 car. Bedrooms: 3. Baths: 2. Half Baths: 1

To estimate cost, I'll use the "cost to build" calculator on my resource #5 , “Building Costs by City & State”, on "Getting Started" on byoh.com, using “average" quality and a slab foundation

Using this "shape" on the "cost to build" calculator, for the Denver - Boulder CO area, I came up with $171,288 for an owner/builder.

That’s an approximate cost of $77 per sq. ft. (Based on 2,222 sq. ft of living area)

I determined this amount by deducting the General Contractor’s Markup, equipment rental, and allowed only $2,000 for insurance.

Breakdown of Building Costs for This House. (PDF file)
(You will need Adobe Reader to read this cost breakdown.)
Here is a FREE Adobe Reader download if you need it.

You should keep in mind that the cost to build for this example, or any house plan, can vary considerably depending quality of materials selected, and on actual bids for labor and material.

Again, the estimate for this house is an approximate one based on “average” quality materials and a slab foundation as of May, 2008.

Until you actually start getting bids and entering them into your own spreadsheet (see my spreadsheet page for FREE spreadsheets), it will remain approximate.

Enjoy & "Happy Mother's Day"

Carl

That is One Ugly Door!

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Sat, 10 May 2008 13:12:00 +0000

It's time again for Therma-Tru's annual Ugly Door contest. There's a chance that you could win a new door worth up to $5,000. The contest began May 1 and entries will be accepted through July1.

To enter, just submit pictures of your ugliest door. Therma-Tru will announce two winners: one in a video category and a second in a written essay category.

Both will be announced by Tom Kraeutler of “The Money Pit” radio program. The winners will receive a Therma-Tru fiberglass door system.

For more on rules and regulations, and to enter, go to http://www.myuglydoor.com/.

Photos courtesy of Therma-Tru Doors

Hope you win!

Good Luck,
Carl...and,

Check out Therma Tru's door designer !

Therma Tru's door designer

How You Should Buy a Foreclosed House

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Fri, 09 May 2008 19:57:00 +0000

How You Should Buy a Foreclosed House.

Well, how should you buy a foreclosed house?

Just like a savvy investor would. Why? Because, you want to buy as cheaply as they do.

Why would you want to buy a foreclosure?

Because you can end up with TWICE as much equity than if you built a comparable house yourself, even as an owner/builder!

There are some incredible “deals” out there, in almost every state in the nation. Some of these houses are very nice, and in good neighborhoods.

As soon as the inventory of foreclosed properties decreases (and it will!), this situation will change, but for now, banks are anxious to get rid of these houses.

Your home is an investment for you. Be a savvy homebuyer (investor).

This article from ReCasa Financial Group, an investment lender, suggests how savvy investors should determine the maximum that they will offer a bank that is trying to sell a foreclosure.

“CAN IT COMP?

A GUIDE TO BUYING RIGHT

When evaluating a potential deal an investor must know if the deal makes sense. What should you bid? What is the maximum you can pay? By pulling sales comparables you can back your way into these numbers and walk away from a potentially bad deal. While sales comparables are not an exact science, it gives the investor the ability to determine worthwhile deals.

WHAT IS AN ACCURATE SALES COMPARABLE?An accurate sales comparable identifies recent sales of properties that are similar in terms of bedrooms, bathrooms, square footage and condition. The best comparable sale would be an exact duplicate of the subject property and would indicate, by the known selling price of the duplicate, the price for which the subject property could be sold. In general, they should be within a mile of the potential deal and less than one year old. In neighborhoods where blocks and streets can vary in value, be discerning in what an accurate comparable is. It is important to drive by the sales comparables to determine how your property compares.

If your rehab project includes adding a 3rd bedroom and a 2nd bathroom, be sure to pull comparable sales for what the completed project will be, not what it currently is.

STEPS TO BUYING RIGHT

Step 1: Investor identifies potential rehab project and gathers sales comparables and averages value.

Step 2: Investor estimates costs to bring property up to market value. To confirm costs, investor receives contractor quotes. Investor determines target profit number.

Step 3: Investor calculates purchase price.

PLUGGING THE NUMBERS:

Step 1: Property identified, average of 4 sales comparables are $150,000.

Step 2: Contractor estimates $25,000 in improvement costs.

Step 3: Investor should set a minimum profit of 20%.

$150,000 x .80 = $120,000 Total amount that can be financed with 20% profit

$7,000 Closing costs and other fees

$120,000-$7,000-$25,000= $88,000 Subtracting closing costs & rehab costs

To ensure a 20% profit, the maximum an investor should pay for the property in the about scenario is $88,000.

Investors additionally need to consider their carrying costs after the project is completed.

To best determine what possible carrying costs could be, look at the days on market for your sales comparables. The difference between 3 months and 6 months on the market can substantially affect your profitability.”

Be Savvy! Buy right, and GET good advice from a Real Estate attorney and/or a Realtor!

Carl

Cost Estimating Questions

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Thu, 08 May 2008 18:12:00 +0000

From: Ling

"Dear Carl,

1. When was the Cost to Build Examples (1 thru 10) first published? Are they recent? I am trying to find out whether this reflects the current (5/2008) cost.

2. Generally speaking, does it cost more to demolish an existing house than build from ground up?If I demolish a house, that is about 2,000 sq.ft. and I leave the foundation “as is”, should I expect it to cost more to rebuild than building from scratch?

3. Would you please advise why in your Cost to Build Example #5 for Spartanburg, SC, the Masonry Frame cost is not included? I checked the other examples, e.g. in Example 1 and 3, & they both include Masonry Frame cost, which is a big item. Please advise."

Hi Ling,

Answer to #1:
The Cost to build Examples started in January of this year (2008). They are only approximate estimates, from Building-Cost.net & done by a computer. I would dare to say that prices have dropped since January.

Under NO circumstances, would I use the “Cost to Build” from my examples, or from the “Cost to Build” calculator to form my final decision to build or not build a particular house plan.

Only when you go through your own process of obtaining actual bids for labor and materials and completing your own spreadsheet, will be able to make an intelligent, informed decision.

Answer to #2:
Tearing down (demolishing) a house has its’ own set of costs. It is NOT cheap.

There are demolition permits (and permission) to obtain, Utility company expenses, and trash hauling and “dumping” fees to calculate, as well as the labor costs. It has to be done by a professional.

Be sure to read my the last chapter in my (FREE) eBook on "tearing down".
Here is an excerpt:

"This option usually requires a lot of cash or existing equity in the project. The only legal way to tear down a house is to either own it free and clear or to pay off any existing mortgages. One could get permission from the mortgagor, but this only works if the loan balance is less than the value of the land, since once the house is torn down, the only thing of value left is the land! Whatever improvements you put into the house as cash or equity over and above the value of the land is gone forever once it is torn down."

By the way, I don’t know how you can demolish a house without severely damaging the foundation. I don’t think it’s possible.

Besides, in an older house, the foundation usually isn’t worth saving.

Answer to #3:
Ooops! I made a mistake on # 3 when using the calculator and clicked on Masonry Walls. I have never built a house with masonry walls. I meant to click on “Frame walls” with brick veneer as the siding (full brick).

I have corrected that on the example and it should be up on the web site by tomorrow. You can view it here for now: House Plan of the Week & Cost to Build.

#1 doesn’t have masonry walls either, just some stone trim.

I was not surprised to find out that it actually cost more to build “stick frame” walls with brick veneer than “masonry walls” on #3. I knew it would.

Hope I have sufficiently answered your questions.
If not, let me know.

Thanks for your interest in http://www.byoh.com/.

Carl

Glass Blocks

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Wed, 07 May 2008 17:17:00 +0000

Everybody loves bathroom windows. Natural light can’t be beat. But they are not always feasible due to a need for privacy.

Here are some ideas that solve that problem of privacy as well as adding WOW! factors to windows and “walk in” showers.. . Glass blocks!

These are photos worth a thousand words.

All photos courtesy of Monroeville Glass Block

Be sure to read the FAQ's on the Monroeville Glass Block web site too.

Carl

Appraised Value Came in Low - What to Do?

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Tue, 06 May 2008 18:33:00 +0000

From: Kristen

"Carl,

My husband and his father have been building homes for years. Now we are ready to build our own home, saving the money my father in law would charge someone else and doing much of the labor ourselves.

We purchased 17 acres of farm land last May for a total of $59,000. We have acquired $9,338 in equity.

We have designed the home and had blueprints made for a 1700 square foot ranch house.

The bank's appraiser valued the house and land at $234,000.

We objected to the appraised value, but the appraiser said it was their opinion and they were sticking to it.

Our credit scores are both above 750. The bank will only loan up to 95% of the value (which is absurdly low) and that is if we pay PMI (which is a waste of money).

What would you advise us to do?

We enjoy your website very much and found it very helpful so far. Sincerely, Kristen”

Hi Kristen,

Bummer on the appraisal, but devaluation of appraised values is occurring around the country. BUT, you are about to receive the true benefit of being an owner/builder (your own General Contractor).

If you are careful with your shopping for the best prices for building materials (prices have fallen) and the subcontractor labor for the jobs you are not going to do yourselves, you should be able to build a good quality 1700 sq. ft. ranch on a full basement, with an attached garage for under $80.00 per sq.ft. (Less if on a crawl space or slab), especially since you are doing some (much) of the labor!

Number crunch:
Appraised value = $234,000
Loan @ 80% of value = $187,200

Land payoff = $49,662 (assuming that your acquired equity ($9,338) = payment on land)
Cost to build = $136,000 (1,700 X $80)

Total = $185,662!

Voila, you don’t have a problem! And, NO PMI at 80% LTV (Loan to Value)!

If worse comes to worse, borrow more (95% = $222,300!) and pay PMI (It's not forever). (Check out Bank of America for their less than 20% down, no PMI mortgages)

In a short period of time (hopefully) and after you finish the house, your house’s value will probably be up where you think it should be and you’ll be thankful that the lower appraisal made you shop more carefully and really stick to your budget. You’ll really be the winner!

If you don't agree with these numbers, please let me know and we can revisit the situation.

Best of luck,

Carl

Adding Line Items To Cost Spreadsheet

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Mon, 05 May 2008 21:46:00 +0000

Dear Readers,
I have had several questions similar to the following:
“Can you add line items (i.e. builder's risk insurance) to your home buiding cost estimate spreadsheet?”

The answer is yes.
Just type in the name of line item you want in any of the blank categories (description column) at the bottom of the categories (description column) on either the FREE Excel home building cost estimate spreadsheet or the FREE byoh.com home building cost estimate spreadsheet.

You can also change any of the categories by double clicking on the one you want to change, highlight it or backspace over it, and then type in a new category.

Hope this helps everyone,
Carl

House Plan of the Week with Cost to Build on a Slab

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Sun, 04 May 2008 14:39:00 +0000

Southwestern House Plan116-217 Houseplans.com Southwestern House Plans

Specs:
Basics:Levels: 2Bedrooms: 3Baths: 3Garage Stalls: 2Dimensions:
Width: 45'Depth: 57'Height:: 21'
Square Footage:
Heated Square Footage: 1583
Main Floor: 1057
Upper Floor: 526
Porch: 54
Patios: 410
Wall InformationExterior Wall Constr: 2"x4"
Foundations it can be built on:Basement, Crawlspace, Slab
Style:Style: Southwestern
Related Styles: Adobe Santa Fe
Lifestyle Features:covered front porch

Designer notes

Features three bedrooms and three full baths
A tiled Foyer opens into a large Living Room with a unique Kiva Fireplace

The Master Bedroom located on the upper level adjoins with a private deck An efficient "U" shaped Kitchen with snack bar is located next to the Dining area Second Master Bedroom on first level with private bath opens onto a walled patio

To estimate cost, I'll use my resource #5 , “Building Costs by City & State”, on "Getting Started" on http://byoh.com/., using “average" quality, and a Slab foundation.

Since there is no intricate roof framing, I am using the 6 corner template for the calculator.

Using this "shape" on the "cost to build" calculator for the Santa Fe, NEW MEXICO area, I came up with $127,438 for an owner/builder. That’s an approximate cost of $80.50 per sq. ft.

I determined this amount by deducting the General Contractor’s Markup and I allowed only $2,000 for insurance.

Click here for Breakdown of Building Costs for this House:
(You will need Adobe Reader to read this cost breakdown.)

Here is a FREE Adobe Reader download if you need it.)

You should keep in mind that the cost to build for this example, or any house plan, can vary considerably depending quality of materials selected, and on actual bids for labor and material.

The estimate for this house is an approximate one based on “average” quality materials and no basement.

Until you actually start getting bids and entering them into your own spreadsheet (see my spreadsheet page for FREE spreadsheets), it will remain approximate.

If you have a particular home plan and/or city you would like to see on this feature, let me know.
Carl

Land Surveys are VERY Important!

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Sat, 03 May 2008 13:01:00 +0000

From: Gena

"Hi, Carl -- I have a question about getting a survey. Can I just use the survey that had already been done when I purchased the land? Or do I need a new one? Thanks!”

Hi Gena,

You are lucky you got a land survey when you purchased your land. Often sellers don't provide one and buyers don't ask for one.

Note: Always get a survey when buying land, always...even if it's a large tract of land. Seller should pay for surveys.

A survey measures and locates the boundaries of a piece of land based on the legal description of that piece of land. When drawn out by the surveyor, it looks like this.

This survey is of lot in a subdivision with a proposed house drawn in.

Subdivisions have a master survey of all the lots in the subdivision recorded with the local municipality so the actual legal description can be referenced just by a lot number

If the land you are buying isn’t in a subdivision, the legal description of the piece of land you are buying will be written out.

Here is an example of a legal description: SE1/4 of NW1/4 of Section 3, T3N, R1E, 3rd PM would be the southeast quarter of the northwest quarter of section 3 in township 3 north, range 2 east of the 3rd Principle Meridian.
(Good thing the surveyors can draw these out, isn’t it?).

The legal description on your survey should match the legal description on your “deed” and the legal description on your “title insurance policy”.

Note: Always get Title Insurance for the land purchase. Seller should pay for it.

So Gena, whether or not the survey that you have from the purchase of your land will suffice depends on what you are going to do with the land.

If you are just going to look at the land for a few years and not build any new structures, it should be fine if it meets the above criteria as to matching legal descriptions.

If a new structure is going to be added, or an addition to an existing structure is going to be made, a revised survey will be required by your lender after the foundation is in to show where it was placed( called a "Mortgage Survey" or "Mortgage Report"). If a lender is not involved, for any new structures or additions, you would want a new survey for your own protection.

Protection from what you say?

Well, one of the common mistakes that even professional builders make is placing the foundation of a structure (house or addition) in violation of minimum setback requirements from property lines, easements, or “right of ways”.

I hate to say this, but I violated setback requirements twice. (I’m a slow learner)

Now I wouldn’t even think of not using a surveyor to place the house on the lot.

When setback violations occur, all work stops until the foundation is moved, torn down, partially rebuilt, or a variance issued. In some extreme cases, adjoining property must be purchased.

A word to the wise is sufficient

I hope I’ve answered your question.

Carl

Rules of thumb for the cost per sq. ft. of a house are dangerous!

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Fri, 02 May 2008 14:32:00 +0000

From: Laurie

"Is it true that the general rule of thumb is the cost of labor to build a house is about $100 - $110 per square foot? And this is in addition to the cost of the land?"

Hi Laurie,

No, that’s not true.

First of all, I assume (you know what that spells) that you mean labor AND materials. Secondly, $100 -$110 per sq. ft. is a bit high, unless a General Contractor were quoting this “rule of thumb. And yes, it would be without land.

If you are going to be Your Own General Contractor, you will find $70 to $98 per sq. ft. on the “Cost Per Sq. Ft. to Build 11 Houses, 11 States – Recap” on my Sunday, April 20 blog.

Rules of thumb for the cost per sq. ft. of a house are dangerous, for professional General Contractors as well as Owner/builders.

Price per sq ft. can swing wildly depending on many factors. Here are a few of those factors:

Size: The bigger the house, the more it costs overall, but the cost per sq. ft. drops dramatically, as the cost of items such as kitchens is spread out over more square footage, and so on.

Design: The pitch of the roof, the type of roof, the style of the roof, the weight of the shingles, the number of windows, the style of windows, and so on, affect the cost per sq. ft. tremendously.

Foundations: type of foundation, land slope, drainage, and the list goes on, all affect the cost per sq. ft.

Shopping: The same house (plan) can vary greatly by quality & cost of labor & materials chosen. Those who love, and are good at shopping get the lowest cost per sq. ft.!

Determining the cost of building a particular house is the number one job of any General Contractor. Nothing else even comes close.

Review the sample "cost per sq. ft. in the samples mentioned above or from the "cost to build examples" (under the categories on http://www.byoh.com/) and read my eBook, and you’ll see. (The eBook is FREE!)

Good luck,
Carl

Contractor Markup in the NW

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Thu, 01 May 2008 22:51:00 +0000

From: A. D.

"Hi Carl, I really identify with your approach. Have you ever done any research on average contractor markups? I live in the NW and was wondering what someone would save on average to eliminate contractor costs."

Hi A. D.

Actually, it doesn’t matter if it is the NW, SW, NE, or SE., a builder has to make enough money to stay in business.

Each custom builder must evaluate his or her own situation in order to establish the markup percentage that will cover operating expenses and provide a reasonable profit.

Years ago, as a member of NAHB, I went to a seminar NAHB put on for builders that discussed builder markups and builder profits.

In a nutshell, here is what NAHB said:

“If a builder doesn’t make at least 25% gross profit (before business expenses) on every job, that builder probably won’t be in business in 5 years.”

Carl

A Nice Note

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Thu, 01 May 2008 20:52:00 +0000

From: Tom D.

"Carl,

I just wanted to thank you for creating and updating you website. We are planning to build a house and your site has been very helpful. Thank you so much.

Tom D."

Thanks Tom,

You made my day!

Carl

Heaving Concrete

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Wed, 30 Apr 2008 17:19:00 +0000

From: Nancy

"Hi Carl,

My house has concrete slabs in the back yard which make up my patio. I live in NY State and the constant changing weather has caused the slabs closest to the house to heave inward so that any water whether it is melting snow, rain, or just washing off patio runs inward and sits at the foundation for hours and sometimes even days depending on the weather. Is there a quick and fairly inexpensive fix for this or will I need to have it replaced?"

Hi Nancy,

Using a concrete slab for a patio is a good way & one of the least expensive ways to build a patio.

Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever, especially concrete slabs, without footings or a good sub base.

Unprotected from frost and freezing ground, they heave and crack. They also sink when they are poured on non-compacted earth, such as near a house foundation.

In your case, an additional problem may occur due to the sinking, if it hasn’t already, and that is that the sitting water may eventually seep into your basement.

I think you need to have the slab(s) removed, the soil re-graded, compacted, and a gravel sub-base installed, and new slab(s) poured.

Compacting the soil won’t prevent this from happening again, but it will help add years to the lifetime of your patio.

Compactor

You may want to consider using permeable (porous or pervious) concrete when you redo the patio.

Permeable concrete allows water to pass through and drain into the gravel sub-base.

Permeable concrete uses the same equipment and process as common concrete. The difference is larger pea gravel and a lower water-to-cement ratio to achieve a pebbled, open surface that is roller compacted.

Your concrete subcontractor should be able to handle this, as well as the removal of the old concrete patio, filling in the sunken earth, and the compacting of the new earth.

Good luck,

Carl

Estimating Cost to Build - Preliminary vs. Final

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Tue, 29 Apr 2008 17:43:00 +0000

From: Paige

"Carl,
I bought your book and I am using your spreadsheet. I am building on a slab--3200 sq. ft. of living space with an additional 800 sq.ft. of porch under roof. I have a $250,000 budget with a 10-15% cushion. But I'm still stressed, even though I put my 76936 zip code in with slab, under-roof carport and top-quality everything else--the spreadsheet comes out to exactly $250,000 (excluding contractor mark-up). Can you give me some assurance that I'm not in over my head? My house plan should be finalized this next week and we are ready to break ground--water, electricity, and road are already paid for out of our own pockets.

Thanks!
Paige
One more thing--how do you feel about Eldorado Stone versus natural stone? I am planning on using stucco in combination with stone.

Thanks,
Paige"

PAIGE,
WHOA! STOP WHERE YOU ARE!!!

You are referring to the spreadsheet/cost to build calculator from build-cost.net that is on my “getting started” (#5) page!

That is for preliminary, “rough” estimating ONLY! It should only be used to get a “rough” idea of the approximate cost to build for a certain size/style house in a given area (zip code).

It is an excellent tool, but I sure wouldn’t make my final decision to build or not to build based on it.

If you have my book and have read it, you should realize that I state in Chapter 3: “Remember: cost estimating is the most important step!”

Let’s review Chapter 1 “Where to Start”, where I give you the decision making steps on whether to build or not.

“These are the basic steps in deciding whether to proceed with your building project.
1. Make a budget.
2. Deduct land cost.
3. Determine what size and style of house you can afford.
4. Find house plans that meet these criteria.
5. Determine the cost to build this particular house.
6. Get an appraisal on the value of the finished house and land together.
7. Now you can make your decision.”

You have “done” 1, 2, 3, & 4, but you need to now spend time on #5, for it is critical to do accurate cost estimating and even more important to control those costs as the house progresses.

If you don't calculate an accurate budget before you start building and stick to that estimated budget, you probably won’t save 25 percent of the cost of the project, and you may well end up not being able to afford to finish and/or keep the house. This is not good!

You need to take your house plans when you get them, and get your own bids on everything that goes into that house…for both labor & materials…everything!

Then you enter these bids onto your own spreadsheet for each category and get your own “cost to build.

Free spreadsheets are available on byoh.com, already formatted. These spreadsheets are in either Excel or my own byoh.com spreadsheet with its own software to run it and with “mouse over” pop up tip boxes to remind you what goes in each category.

Then you can move on to step #6 which involves getting an appraisal of the final value of your house. As I said in chapter 1, you can obtain a written appraisal of what your dream home will be worth after it is built on the land you have selected (or own).

You will be getting such an appraisal ordered by your construction lender, but you can order one yourself as soon as you have selected land, plans, and basic specifications. (Look in the Yellow Pages under Appraisers or call a Realtor or Lender for a recommended appraiser). It is not expensive to get an appraisal (about $300-$400) and it is folly not to have one at all.

Now you can move on to Step 7: Decision time! Based on total cost of land, labor, and material, is this project worth it? With the appraisal in hand, you will be able to make your decision intelligently by reviewing the following factors.

1. Are you saving any money?
2. Is the house over, or under, priced for the neighborhood? (Under is better!)
3. Can you revise your cost estimate if there is less than 25% savings?

Once you decide to move ahead with your dream house and have obtained financing, you can start on the fun part of seeing the work actually begin.

Remember this: “There are NO shortcuts” in this business!

As for Eldorado Stone versus natural stone?

Photos courtesy of Eldorado Stone

As for Eldorado Stone versus natural stone? Eldorado Stone is beautiful and, according to the manufacturer (I actually called them) is ½ the price of natural stone. There are other great benefits as well. I plan to do a blog on Eldorado Stone in the near future.

Good Luck and don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.
Carl

School(s) of Homebuilding

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:12:00 +0000

From: RON

"Carl,

I plan to build a new house next year. I'm now starting with my wife planning it. I want to do it myself without using a builder as you propose. Are there any schools/classes (maybe for a week or two) to generally give guidance for this effort? I live in South Carolina. I'm an electrical engineer so have many years of work project engineering experience.
Thanks,
Ron"

Hi Ron,

I'm not sure the of the value of any of the schools that you'll find on this very inclusive list from Mother Earth News, but here's the link to the list:

I taught classes in my school(s) of home building for years, but then put everything on line and felt that should be enough to motivate people to do what I did, that is, build your 1st house. I went on and made a career out of it.

You are, because of your profession, better prepared than most.

Hope this info helps.

Best of luck & let me know how it goes.
Carl

Be Your Own General Contractor Video

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 14:07:00 +0000

Building or Remodeling Your Home? Learn how to be Your Own General
Contractor and get the results YOU want!

Since 1981, hundreds of thousands have saved enough money building, renovating, or adding on to their own home to make their dream come true.

Most knew little or nothing about building, yet they saved 25% or more. They did so by being the General Contractor (GC), determining building costs & hiring professionals (subcontractors) to do the actual work.

That’s what a GC does.

Anne-Marie Barton says:
"When it comes to remodeling or building your home, there's no need to feel intimidated. Go ahead--take the chance to make your mark."

Here’s a short video from About .com, with Anne-Marie Barton.

Click here or on photo to watch.

Is it really as easy to Be Your Own General Contractor as I say and the video implies?

Well, if you read my book, go through my website, where every thing you need and need to know is free, yes, it is easy to "Save 25% Without Lifting A Hammer"!

I’ve been successfully teaching men and women just how easy it is to be their own General Contractor for over 25 years.

“You can do it, I can help!” – Carl

Geothermal Heat Pumps-Cost vs. Savings+Rebates+Pond Closed Loops

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Mon, 21 Apr 2008 17:20:00 +0000

From: MARY

"Hi Carl, I am building a log home on our property (approximately 3000 sq.ft.) Was wondering if geothermal was the way to go. We are going to put a pond in at the same time as the new build and thought about the pond for the coils. We also were checking to see if there are any rebates from the government for the energy saving geothermal heating system? I can't find anything online about this question. Thanks a lot for your time,
Mary"

Hi Mary,
There are a lot of things to consider here. I assume you have read my info on geothermal heat pumps. If not, it’s located on my category list under GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMPS. It has the most thorough, unbiased research I have seen.

As you can see from the NAHB research that went into that article, GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMPS are very energy efficient, and although their initial cost is 50% to 100% more than an air to air heat pump, they often pay for themselves in 10 years, which for many people is the criteria used for determining if an energy saving device is worth it. Other people may not care about payback periods; they are interested only in the altruistic value of the device.

Where you are building, and the energy efficiency of your house, will determine how much energy/money you will save; the more frigid the weather, the bigger the savings, the more energy efficient the house, the smaller the savings. Ironic, isn’t it?

By the way, a well built log home is one of the most energy efficient homes you can build!

Keep in mind; we are mainly talking about the “heating phase” of the GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMP system, as the cooling phase will not provide energy efficiency savings as drastic.

GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMPS use the relatively constant temperature of the ground or water several feet below the earth's surface as source of heating and cooling.

As for your idea of using your pond for the coils, it would depend on what is allowed by your building inspection department in your locale.

Here is what the California Energy Commission has to say about Pond Closed Loops:

“This type of loop design may be the most economical when a home is near a body of water such as a shallow pond or lake. Fluid circulates underwater through polyethylene piping in a closed system, just as it does through ground loops. The pipes may be coiled in a slinky shape to fit more of it into a given amount of space. Since it is a closed system, it results in no adverse impacts on the aquatic system.”

However, this idea, as well as all potential energy savings and technical questions, is something I, as a General Contractor would be expected to research by talking to the experts in the GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMP industry.

These experts would be (but not limited to) GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMP manufacturers, dealers recommended by the manufacturer, my building inspection department, & my local electricity supplier (power company) to determine money saved by each system I want to compare. And yes, they (the power company) will, or should, do this for free.

As for rebates, they are out there, but they vary from state to state, and yes, rebates for GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMPS are available in some states. Here is a link to DSIRE. DSIRE is an excellent comprehensive source of information on state, local, utility, and federal incentives ($) that promote renewable energy and energy efficiency.

I hope I have helped.
Thanks for your interest in www.byoh.com.

Carl

Cost Per Sq. Ft. to Build 11 Houses, 11 States - Recap

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:22:00 +0000

Charlotte NC $81 .........................Burlington VT $70 .............Grand Rapid MI $90

Portland OR $98............................Spartanburg SC $96 ............Atlanta $85

Concord NH $72 ..........................Phoenix AZ $81 ................St Louis MO $78

San Bernardino, CA $80...............San Antonio, TX $70

Saturday Moaning

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:28:00 +0000

Dear Readers,

Customer Modular Direct has a very informative site on modular homes. They even have a slide show on how easy modular construction is for the owner/builder/project manager (you).

Great looking homes!

Here’s one:

“SAVE THOUSANDS... BUILDING IT YOURSELF
Why spend thousands on a builder's profit and overhead, when you can buy your home factory direct from us? With our program you eliminate the middle man. Find out how hundreds of satisfied customers have built their custom modular home on their own with our help.”
Customer Modular Direct

A couple of short emails that I think should be of interest to all:

From: Jeff B

"Is it cheaper to build up then build out. We are thinking about 1,800 -2,000 sq.ft but do not want the extra expense of that large of basement. Plus building up eliminates roofing and the need for another set of trusses. All things being equal would it be more economical to build up?"

Hi Jeff,

Absolutely! Good thinking. The foundation and roofing costs are cut in half (including trusses) in a 2 storey of the same square footage as a 1 storey. Heat/AC costs are less as it is takes less energy to heat the 2nd floor and takes less energy to cool the 1st floor. Plumbing "runs" (pipes) are shorter on a 2 storey as baths, kitchens, etc. can be "stacked" above or below each other.

Good luck!
Carl

From: Lori

"Hi Carl,

I completed the Construction Cost Estimate (on Builder-Cost.Net) and I see that there is a contractor markup. Is this a cost that I could subtract for being my own general contractor?"
Hi Lori,

Absolutely!

Review some of the "Cost to Build Examples" (There are actually 11, counting the solar home) that are listed under "Carl's Information, Tips and Photos” on the left side of most of the pages on byoh.com. There are a few other deductions I make.
Good job Lori!

Any other questions let me know.

Carl

From: Bill P

"In your examples of the cost to build a 2000 sq.ft.home you come up with $80 sq/ft. On the example you use, does the 2000 sq.ft. on the main level include a basement? I'm wondering if in your other examples, the basement square footage is included or not?"

Hi Bill,

The example I believe you are referring to, is the one (of 4) on the cost estimating page and it does include an unfinished basement (foundation) but does not include finishing the basement.

I recently started to show finished basement costs on my "House Plan of the Week" feature on my blog. You can find 2 0r 3 examples there. Eventually, those examples will get transferred to byoh.com under the category "Cost to Build Example ##".

It is easy to figure finished basement costs for any house using the cost to build calculator (step #5) on my "Getting Started" page. Just compute the cost to build first without a finished basement, then do it again with a finished basement. The difference between the two totals is the cost of finishing the basement.

It is amazing how little it costs to finish a basement, if you do it at the time the house is being built.

The cost per sq. ft., including the finished basement area drops like a rock!

Here are 2 examples that have finished basement costs from my blog.
Click on the pictures to explore cost breakdown.

Thanks for your interest in byoh.com, and good luck!

Don't hesitate to ask any questions.

Carl

Where to Build Your Dream Home

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 21:10:00 +0000

Dear Readers,

Here’s a good article from “The Street.com” on what to consider and what to look for when considering where to build.

For more on this important subject, review my two categories on “Buying Land” and, Buying Land Part 2” on byoh.com

Carl

Where to Build Your Dream Home

John Morell

04/14/08 - 12:27 PM EDT
If your dream home only exists in a corner of your mind when you close your eyes and access it between boring meetings, it may be time to start building it.

But first, you need a place to put that sucker.

Picking a lot is probably the most critical part of building a new home. Unless it's a double-wide, a house doesn't move easily and if you're stuck on a bum piece of property, that nice four-bedroom ranch home just isn't going to rise in value as quickly as your neighbor's.

Once you've settled on the ZIP Code where you want your new home, your next step is probably to find the man or woman best suited to search for your lot: a broker.

"Good real estate brokers know the neighborhoods they work in very well, they can guide you through the ins and outs of which street is good to build on, which area is a good value, that sort of thing," says Carl Heldmann, a North Carolina builder who wrote Be Your Own House Contractor (Storey Publishing 2007).

There are two types of lots that you're going to have to select from: developed and raw. A developed lot generally has an old home on it that needs to be razed and carted away, so you'll have to have to figure those demolition and clean-up costs into your overall budget.

With raw land you don't have to deal with getting rid of a previous owner's house but you do have to be concerned about whether the soil needs to be prepared for a home to sit on it. And, if the city water and utility lines stop far from your lot you're probably going to be on the hook to bridge them to your lot.

If your plan is to build in a remote location, it could make more sense to go "off the grid" with solar power panels on the roof ($15,000 and up) and a water well ($5,000 and up).

Another issue that comes up is landscaping. A lot with some nice healthy trees and shrubs is going to be more costly and it could take some jiggering of the blueprints to fit the house around the present foliage. On the other hand, a bare lot is cheaper to buy, but your landscaping costs will be higher once it's complete.

Once you think you've found the lot you want life can get a little complicated. This is when it's a good idea to get an architect or contractor involved since you'll want to make sure the house you're dreaming of will fit on the property without any extraordinary easements you may have to get from the local planning department.

Besides a raw or developed lot, there's another option to consider: building in planned unit development (PUD). These are often found in resort or upscale areas and their developers usually take care of the minutiae of homebuilders for the buyers.

"Our lots are ready for construction from day one, the utilities are stubbed off at the property line and are ready to go and any soil studies have already been completed," says Robert Kildow, director of residential sales for the Hualalai Resort on the island of Hawaii.

You'll pay extra for building in a PUD, since all of the groundwork has basically been done for you and the developer has likely checked out risks like floods or landslides in the area (ask questions just to make sure). You'll also be part of a community association and pay a maintenance fee for common area landscaping and security, but there are often perks like country club memberships included in the rate.

On the downside, if your dream house is a colonial painted in shocking pink, you're not going to be welcome at most PUDs. There are usually architectural guidelines that restrict the types of structures in the community including their footprint and their height, which may not be a bad thing.

"We have a strict 20-foot height limit on homes to preserve everyone's ocean views," says Kildow. "When you look at one of our lots, we have someone stand with a 20-foot pole at the adjacent lots to show you how high the structures around you will be."

If you decide to purchase your lot outside of a PUD, you can still safeguard yourself by talking to the local planning development to find out what they figure the area around your property will look like in 10 years.

"Obviously, if you have this great piece of property and the city projects that the dirt road next to it will turn into a four-lane throughway in a few years, that's the time to look elsewhere," says Heldmann. "Never get too emotionally invested in a piece of land."

The Life Expectancy…Of Your House!

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Wed, 16 Apr 2008 14:18:00 +0000

Dear Readers, I found this article fascinating. I have wondered about some of this.
This is from “Nation’s Building News Online”, the official weekly newspaper of the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB)

Carl

Study Sheds Light on Home Component Life Expectancy
“With Americans relying on the equity in their homes as an essential element of their life savings, Bank of America wants home owners to better understand how to preserve value in their most important financial asset,” said David Rupp, Bank of America Home Equity executive. Bank of America is the leading provider of home equity loans, with a portfolio of more than $88 billion.

A new study sponsored by Bank of America Home Equity and conducted by NAHB provides general guideline information on how many years of service a home owner can reasonably expect from the various components of a home, keeping in mind that numerous factors — including use, maintenance, climate, advances in technology and simple consumer preferences — can have a dramatic effect on the longevity of a product.

The NAHB/Bank of America Home Equity "Study of the Life Expectancies of Home Components” was conducted in the summer of 2006.

“By polling experts in a wide range of fields, we learned that many home components are expected to last for the life of the house,” said Gopal Ahluwalia, staff vice president for research and surveys in NAHB’s Economics Group. “Among them are toilets, wood floors, all types of insulation, and fiberglass, steel and wood exterior doors.

“On the other hand” he said, “some components have a much shorter life expectancy. Wood decks should last about 20 years, depending on climate, and kitchen faucets should last about 15 years. Linoleum floors have a life expectancy of about 25 years, and furnaces can be expected to last 15 to 20 years.”

“With Americans relying on the equity in their homes as an essential element of their life savings, Bank of America wants home owners to better understand how to preserve value in their most important financial asset,” said David Rupp, Bank of America Home Equity executive. Bank of America is the leading provider of home equity loans, with a portfolio of more than $88 billion.

“It’s important to remember that the life expectancies for materials included in this study are averages,” said Ahluwalia. “Usage, weather and a number of other factors can influence life expectancy. Moreover, home owners often replace items long before the end of their expected life span due to personal preferences and changing trends.

“For example,” he added, “the practical life expectancy of kitchen cabinets is about 50 years. However, many people buying a 15- or 20-year-old house would make installing new, updated kitchen cabinets a priority. Likewise, some home owners paint their homes every year or two, even though interior paint has a practical life expectancy of about 15 years.”

Among the findings of the study:
• Appliances. Of the major appliances in a home, gas ranges have the longest life expectancy, at 15 years. Dryers and refrigerators last about 13 years. Appliances with the shortest life spans are: compactors (six years), dishwashers (nine years) and microwave ovens (nine years). Some appliances don’t meet their life expectancy, however, because changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences may make newer products more desirable. Also, how long they last depends on how much they are used.

• Cabinetry and Storage. Kitchen cabinets are expected to last up to 50 years, medicine cabinets for more than 20 years and garage/laundry cabinets for 100 years or more. Closet shelves can last for a lifetime.

• Concrete and Masonry. Masonry is one of the most durable components of the home. Chimneys, fireplaces and brick veneers can last a lifetime, and brick walls have an average life expectancy of more than 100 years.

• Countertops. Natural stone, which is less expensive than a few years ago and gaining in popularity, can last a lifetime. Cultured marble, by contrast, is relatively short-lived, with an age expectancy of 20 years.

• Decks. The life span of these can vary significantly according to different climates, but they should be around for a good 20 years under ideal conditions.

• Doors. Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house stands, while vinyl and screen doors have life expectancies of 20 and 40 years, respectively. Closet doors are expected to last a lifetime, French doors for 30 to 50 years.

• Electrical and Lighting. Copper-plated wiring, copper-clad aluminum and bare copper wiring are expected to last a lifetime, whereas electrical accessories and lighting controls are expected to last for at least 10 years or more.

• Engineered Lumber. Floor and roof trusses and laminated strand lumber are good for a lifetime, engineered trim for 30 years.

• Faucets and Fixtures. Kitchen sinks made of modified acrylic will last 50 years, faucets will work properly for about 15. Bathroom shower enclosures can stick around for 50 years, although the shower doors could be in a serious state of decline in about 20 years. Showerheads last a lifetime, as will toilets, although tank components require some maintenance. The durability of whirlpool tubs ranges fairly widely — from 20 to 50 years — depending on use.

• Flooring. All natural wood flooring, and marble, slate and granite will last for 100 years if they are well taken care of. Vinyl floors will endure for up to 50 years, linoleum about 25 years and carpet between eight and 10 years, depending on traffic and care.

• Footings and Foundations. Poured as well as concrete block footings and foundations last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built. Termite proofing will protect foundations for about 12 years if the chemical barriers put in place during construction are left intact. Waterproofing with bituminous coating can start to spring leaks in 10 years, unless it cracks, in which case mortal damage is immediate. Concrete or cast iron waste pipes are made to last a century at least.

• Framing and Other Structural Systems. Poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime, as will wall panels and roof and floor trusses. Softwood, hardboard and plywood average 30 years, while OSB and particleboard last twice as long.

• Garages. Garage doors last 10 to 15 years, and light inserts for 20.

• Home Technology. A built-in audio system will last 20 years, but security systems and heat and smoke detectors will only be around for five to 10. Wireless home networks and home automation systems are expected to work properly for more than 50 years.

• Heating, Venting and Air Conditioning. HVAC systems need proper and regular maintenance in order to work, but even when they are pampered most of their components last only 15 to 25 years. Furnaces live for 15 to 20 years, heat pumps for 16 and air conditioning 10 to 15. Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years. Thermostats usually are replaced before the end of their 35-year life span because of technological improvements.

• Insulation and Infiltration Barriers. Cellulose, fiberglass and foam used in insulation materials will last a lifetime provided that they are not punctured, cut or burned; are kept dry; and are not subjected to UV rays. This pertains whether the insulation was applied as loose fill, house wrap or batts and rolls.

• Job Site Equipment. Ladders last a lifetime, lifts eight to 10 years.

• Molding and Millwork. Custom millwork and circular and spiral, pre-built and attic stairs are all expected to last a lifetime.

• Paints, Caulks and Adhesives. Interior and exterior paints can last for 15 years or longer, although home owners tend to repaint more often.

• Panels. Hardboard and softwood panels are expected to last 30 years, while oriented strand board and particleboard have a life expectancy of 60 years. Wall panels are expected to last for a lifetime.

• Roofing. Slate, copper and clay/concrete roofs have a 50-year life expectancy; asphalt-shingle roofs, 20 years; fiber cement shingles, 25 years; and wood shakes, 30 years. However, the life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, proper building and design, material quality and adequate maintenance.

• Siding and Accessories. Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, engineered wood, both natural and manufactured stone and fiber cement will last as long as the house. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on the weather. Gutters made of copper can last 50 years, of aluminum, 20. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more; aluminum, 30 years.

• Site and Landscaping. Most landscaping elements have a life expectancy of 15 to 25 years. Sprinklers and valves last 20 years; underground PVC piping, 25 years. Polyvinyl fences are designed to last a lifetime, and asphalt driveways should last up to 15 to 20 years. Tennis courts can last a lifetime if they receive a new coat when they need one every 12 to 15 years. The concrete shell of a pool should do swimmingly for more than 25 years; the interior plaster and tile will start showing their age in about 10 to 25 years.

• Walls, Ceilings and Finishes. They should stick around for the entire life of the home.

• Windows and Skylights. Aluminum windows last between 15 and 20 years, while wooden windows can last upwards of 30 years.

Comparison of the most recent results with those from a similar study published in NAHB’s Housing Economics in August 1993 show that the average life span has increased for some components and declined for others, as the result of the introduction of new technologies and products.

For more information, e-mail Steve Melman at NAHB, or call him at 800-368-5242 x8245.
[Editor’s note: This report should be used as a general guideline only. None of the information in this report should be interpreted as a representation, warranty or guarantee regarding the life expectancy or performance of any individual product or product line. Readers should not make buying decisions and/or product selections based solely on the information contained in this report.]

Basement Square Footage Included or Not?

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:23:00 +0000

From: Bill P.

"In your examples on your cost estimating page, you come up with $80 per sq. ft. for the 2,000 sq. ft. house. The example you use shows 2000 sq.ft. on the main level. Does the cost include the basement? I'm wondering if in your examples, if the basement square footage is included or not?"

Hi Bill,

The example I believe you are referring to, is the 1st one (of 4) on the cost estimating page and the cost DOES include building the basement, but NO, it does not include finishing the basement.

I started to show finishing the basement costs recently on my "House Plan of the Week" feature on my blog. You can find 2 or 3 examples there. Eventually, those examples will get transferred to byoh.com under the category "Cost to Build Example (#)".

It is easy to figure basement finishing costs for any house using the cost to build calculator (step #5) on my "Getting Started" page. Just compute the cost to build first without a finished basement, and then do it again with a finished basement.

The difference between the two totals is the cost of finishing the basement.
It is amazing how little it costs to finish a basement,IF you do it at the time the house is being built.

The cost per sq. ft., of living area when it includes the basement living area drops like a rock!

Here are 2 examples that have finished basement costs from my blog:

Click on the photos and check out the cost to build for either or both.

Associated Design - The Adkins

Original Home Plans-The Salisbury 323

Your question is a good one. I should have been clearer on that. I will put clarifying that on my (long) list of things that need fixing.

Please don't hesitate to ask any further questions.

Thanks for your interest in byoh.com, and good luck!

Carl

House Plan of the Week and Cost to Build with Cost to Finish the Basement

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Sun, 13 Apr 2008 13:19:00 +0000

Note: This week, because so many people want to know the cost of a finishing a basement, I am including that as an option. You will be amazed at how much the price per sq. ft. of the entire house drops when you add the basement area!

Remember that in order for a basement to be considered “habitable space”, it must have two (2) means of ingress & egress. This can be accomplished with doors, as in a “walk-out” (which requires a sloping lot), or with large windows, or with an “emergency basement door”. (See below)
Now, on with today's House:

Elegant round columns” dress up" this three bedroom, three bath, southern country porch design. Its classic irresistible styling makes it perfect for almost any neighborhood. The large vaulted family room, enormous country kitchen and its 452 square foot bonus area make this home feel so much more spacious than one might expect of a 2097 square foot design.
The sumptuous master suite includes a double tray ceiling, a sitting area, a large walk-in closet, and luxurious bath. The 14'-3" x 22'-6" country kitchen is open to the vaulted family room. A French door leads to the vaulted screened porch. The patio or deck is accessible from both the screened porch and master bedroom. The dining room is adorned with a decorative round column and tray ceiling. Bedrooms two and three each feature walk-in closets and individual baths.

America's Best House Plans, Inc.
House Plan 036-00084

Square Footage: 2,097 sq. ft.
First Floor: 2,097 sq. ft.
Bonus Room: 452 sq. ft.
Floors: 1
Bedrooms: 3
Bathrooms: 3
Garages: 3 car – 21’-4” x 33’-2”
Width: 70ft.-2in.
Depth: 59ft.
Height: 24ft.
Foundation:
Front Porch:
Screened Porch: Unfinished Basement
29-4 x 6
14-1 x 11-6

To estimate cost, I'll use my resource #5, “Building Costs by City & State”, on "Getting Started" on www.byoh.com, using “average" quality and an unfinished basement foundation.

Using this "shape" on the "cost to build" calculator for the Nashville, TN area, I came up with $219,846 for an owner/builder. That’s an approximate cost of $104.83 per sq. ft. (Total sq.ft. = 2097 sq. ft. + 452 sq. ft. unfinished Bonus Room)

As always, I determined this amount by deducting the General Contractor’s Markup, equipment rental, and allowed only $2,000 for insurance.

Breakdown of Building Costs for This House (Unfinished Basement). PDF
(You will need Adobe Reader to read this cost breakdown.)

Here is a FREE Adobe Reader download if you need it.

The cost to finish the basement is approximately $15,739, giving a total cost (for an owner/builder) of $235,639. That’s an approximate cost of $56.11 per sq. ft.! (Total sq.ft. = 2097sq. ft. + 2097 finished Basement = 4194 Total sq. ft. of living area.)

If the basement is on flat land, you will need an “Emergency Basement Door”
Note: The cost of this Emergency Basement Door is not included in the "Cost to Build"

Here is an example of a "Emergency Basement Door" from Bilco:

Basement Door - Ultra Series from Bilco: Satisfies IRC 2006 Building code requirements for emergency egress in finished basement areas.

You should keep in mind that the cost to build for this example, or any house plan, can vary considerably depending quality of materials selected, and on actual bids for labor and material.

Again, the estimate for this house is an approximate one based on “average” quality materials.

You will notice that this is NOT an inexpensive house to build. This is due to several factors:

1. 2 porches…porches are not cheap
2. Bonus room
3. 3-car garage
4. Multiple roof lines and foundation corners
5. Steep roof pitches

It is however, a very attractive house, and with a finished basement, a lot of space for the “buck”.

Until you actually start getting bids and entering them into your own spreadsheet (see my spreadsheet page for FREE spreadsheets), it will remain approximate.

Enjoy and good luck,
Carl

Drywall with Bullnose Corners

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Sat, 12 Apr 2008 17:28:00 +0000

From: Aisha

"Carl,

What is your opinion on bullnose corners? What about the baseboards? I've heard some contractors use 90° angle baseboard on bullnosed corners...can that
be a problem?"

Hi Aisha,

I love bullnose corners.

Yes, 90° (angle) baseboards, besides looking like an amateur trimmed your house, can be a problem when installing tile or hardwood flooring. It’s tough to cut to fit and you end up with a lot space to fill, and there is no satisfactory way to fill this space.

Here’s a simple solution from Distinctive Woodcraft West

1 1/2 inch radius 3/4 inch radius 3/8 inch radius

There are other companies too.

Good job of “thinking ahead”!

Carl

Budget for Renovation (Remodeling)

noreply@blogger.com (carl) — Fri, 11 Apr 2008 18:16:00 +0000

From: Debra

"I am really trying to put a budget together for renovation. Is there an example I can use for that?"

Debra

Hi Debra,

Here is how to analyze the situation. (From chap 9 in my book(s))

1. Make up a budget how much you can spend.
Budget = cash plus the amount of money you can borrow (see #1 on my “getting started” page on byoh.com)

2. Have the house inspected by a reputable home inspector to find any serious mechanical defects that need attention

3. Determine what upgrades must be done and what improvements you want to make. Consult the inspector, Realtors, Designers (Free in many stores), etc.

4. Make a list, and start getting bids for costs of labor and materials

5. Keep track by filling in the cost estimate spreadsheet just as you would for a new house, except you won’t need some of the categories on the spreadsheet. You will need a few different categories and you can make them up as you see fit. Simply double click on the name of a category you don’t need, highlight it, and type in one you do need.

Note: You will find that labor costs in renovation are much higher (as much as double) than with new construction or even additions. This is because subcontractors know that there are often hidden costs in renovation such as finding problems behind walls or making things fit into an existing space. They also know that extra care must be taken when working in an existing house. Don’t worry, though – material costs are the same for either new construction or renovation.

6. Get an appraisal or market analysis from a Realtor as to what the house will be worth when the work is done.

7. Make your decision based on the appraisal or analysis. Will the added cost make the house too expensive for the neighborhood? This will be indicated on the appraisal. If it does, it will be hard to sell and/or you will lose money. The appraisal may actually indicate a value far below your estimated costs, which could be a function of the neighborhood housing values dragging your project down or an indication that you didn't do a careful enough job of estimating.

8. Note: If you are renovating (remodeling) for resale #7 is critical

9. If you do decide to go ahead, follow the same steps for general contracting as you would in new construction as far as obtaining financing, scheduling subcontractors, etc.

Even with small remodeling jobs, it makes sense to act as your own general contractor. After all, why pay a remodeling general contractor to make the same phone calls you can make to the plumber, electrician, tile contractor, cabinet shop, painters, flooring contractor, home center, and so on.

For example, say you’re planning a new kitchen. Make a list of what you want done. Find corresponding subcontractors for each type of job and get bids from them as well as a list of materials they may need you to supply. Enter all those costs on a spreadsheet and see what it costs with you being the general contractor.

Next get a bid for the whole job from a remodeling general contractor, where all you have to do is write the check. See which way is cheaper. Will your homework and scheduling efforts be worth it? I think you'll find out the answer is yes! If not, get bids and references from at least three remodeling general contractors and make your decision.

Read my category “Adding Appraisal Value” on byoh.com

Read this excellent FREE eBook called “10 brilliant things homeowners do to create awesome remodels.”
Click on HERE,or on the book to download.

By Kathy Price Robinson of the LA Times
(click on Kathy's name to go to her fantastic blog on Remodeling: "Pardon Our Dust"

Hope this helps, let me know.

Carl